A snappy salad with the taste of the sea. The wood ears remain firm and chewy.

• 1/2 cup dried wood ear mushrooms
• 1 medium-sized cucumber, peeled
• Salt
• 1/2 cup fresh cooked crab meat, shredded

Dressing:
• 1-1/2 teaspoons sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
• 2 tablespoons soy sauce
• 1 tablespoon rice vinegar or Chinese red vinegar
• 1 teaspoon Asian sesame oil
• Cilantro sprigs

Soak the wood ears in hot water to cover until soft, about 15 to 20 minutes. Drain and slice.

Cut the cucumber in half lengthwise. Slice very thin diagonally. Sprinkle lightly with salt. Allow to stand for 5 minutes; drain well. Squeeze to remove the excess moisture. Place the cucumber slices in a circle on a plate. Put the sliced wood ears in the center. Arrange the crab meat neatly on top of the mushrooms.

Mix the dressing ingredients together and drizzle the dressing over the salad. Garnish with cilantro.

--Kay Shimizu, from Cooking with Exotic Mushrooms

An unusual soup containing exotic Chinese ingredients. The Chinese-style tofu is the firm variety. The Szechwan peppercorns are not related to our black pepper; they will last for a long time if sealed in a glass jar. The fermented black beans, hot bean sauce, and Asian sesame oil are available in Chinese markets.

• 2 packages Chinese-style tofu, cut into small cubes
• 1/2 teaspoon Szechwan peppercorns
• 3 to 4 wood ear mushrooms
• 2 to 3 large fresh or dried shiitake mushrooms
• 1 large pork chop, fat left on
• 3 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
• 2 tablespoons minced garlic
• 1 teaspoon fermented black beans, rinsed, drained, and chopped
• 1-1/2 teaspoons hot bean sauce
• 3 tablespoons oil
• 1 cup chicken broth or water
• 2 tablespoons cornstarch
• 1/4 cup water
• 1 tablespoon soy sauce
• 2 green onions, including the tops, cut into 1-inch lengths
• 1 tablespoon Asian sesame oil

Place the tofu in a mixing bowl and cover with boiling water for 1 to 2 minutes. Drain. Heat and stir the peppercorns in a dry wok until they begin to smoke and smell of pepper. In a mortar, grind the peppercorns into a fine powder. Soak the wood ear mushrooms in hot water for 15 to 20 minutes. Drain and slice into small sections. If using dried shiitakes, soak for 20 minutes in hot water. Drain and chop into matchstick pieces. Slice the pork into small pieces.

Mix together the ginger, garlic, beans, and bean sauce. Heat the oil in a wok and stir-fry the pork until the color changes. Remove to a plate with a slotted spoon. Quickly stir-fry the garlic mixture. Add to the meat. Let the wok cool a little and add the broth or water. Add the drained tofu and cook gently until the liquid reduces somewhat. Stir in the shiitake mushrooms, wood ears, and pork and garlic mixture.

In a small bowl, mix the cornstarch, water, and soy sauce together. If necessary, adjust thickening. Add the onions and sesame oil, and serve immediately.

--Helen Studebaker

A fragrant, well-seasoned shrimp dish with bite-sized pieces of ear mushrooms. Take care not to overcook the shrimp or the wood ears.

• 1 small handful dried wood ear mushrooms
• 1 tablespoon Asian sesame oil
• 2 tablespoons peanut oil
• 1 to 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
• 1 pound shrimp, peeled and deveined
• 1 green onion, sliced
• 2 carrots, very thinly sliced
• 1/2 cup bamboo shoots, sliced
• 1/2 cup fresh or thawed frozen green peas
• 1 cup bean sprouts
• 3 tablespoons dry white wine
• 1 teaspoon soy sauce
• 1/4 teaspoon grated lemon peel
• Cilantro sprigs

Soak the wood ears in hot water to cover until soft, about 15 to 20 minutes. Squeeze the mushrooms dry and cut to bite size.

In a wok or skillet, heat the sesame and peanut oils. Add the garlic and ginger and stir over medium heat. Add the shrimp, wood ears, and green onion. Stir-fry until the shrimp are pink and opaque. Remove the mixture from the pan with a slotted spoon.

Turn the heat high and add the carrots, bamboo shoots, and green peas and stir for a minute. Add the sprouts, wine, and soy sauce. Add a little water if needed. Stir-fry for 2 minutes.

Return the shrimp mixture to the wok and stir-fry for another minute. Serve on a heated plate and garnish with grated lemon peel and whole sprigs of cilantro.

--Lois Der

An exquisite dish blending many flavors with subtlety. Serve with white or brown rice, or pasta. Chardonnay or champagne will complete this meal.

• 2 pounds sweetbreads
• Vinegar
• 1 bay leaf
• 3 allspice berries
• 1 small handful dried wood ear mushrooms
• 4 tablespoons butter
• 1 large sweet onion, sliced
• 1/4 cup brandy
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 1/2 pound cooked ham, cut into 1/2-by-1/2-by 2-inch slices
• 1 pound common store mushrooms, sliced
• 1/4 cup heavy cream
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

Soak the sweetbreads in cold water to cover for 1 hour, changing the water 2 or 3 times. Drain and place in a deep pot. Measure out cold water to cover, then add 1 tablespoon vinegar per quart of water. Add the bay leaf and allspice. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer for 15 minutes.

Drain the sweetbreads and plunge them into cold water for 5 minutes. Drain again. With fingers remove the dark veins and thick membrane from the sweetbreads.

Soak the wood ears in hot water to cover for 15 to 20 minutes. Squeeze the mushrooms dry and cut to bite size.

In a large sauté pan or skillet, heat the butter until foamy. Brown the sweetbreads on all sides. Add the onion and cook rapidly until the meat is tender. Heat the brandy gently and pour over the sweetbreads and onion. Ignite. When the flames go out, add the white wine, ham, wood ears, and store mushrooms. When these are done to taste, stir in the cream and parsley.

--Carolyn Richmond